Here's the next group email - sent a short while after I'd arrived in Belfast. If you just want the photos, go to the photo gallery.
From Edinburgh I got a bus down to Stranraer to catch the ferry across to Belfast. The ferry was pretty flash, lots of slot machines, a few bars and restaurants, and a duty free shop... (whisky!). About 2 hours in to Belfast, a cloudy day, but not cold. My first experience in the town was getting a beat-up old black cab (ex London taxi - see below) from the port to the halls of residence (the driver had to get someone to help him start the engine... not reassuring). 

There are two varieties of taxis here, regular ones like you find in NZ or wherever, and old black ones, which have been retired from service in London. They operate more like a bus service than a taxi service, each cab has a set route, and may take up to six people, so you never know who you'll end up sitting next to. The service started up during the worst part of the troubles, and there are separate stands for taxis serving catholic and protestant areas, so that you don't have to sit with someone of the "wrong" faith.

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Anyway, I had it to myself this time, and the driver was very talkative, showed me a few of the sights on the way there: the Crown liquor saloon, (one of the oldest bars in town, which has the original decor, and the cabbie thought the original staff also, judging by the speed of service), the Europa Hotel, which is the most bombed hotel in town (48 times in total I think), and Queen's uni of course. The hall where I'm staying (Guthrie House) is just across the road from the main building, and about 10 minutes walk to either town, or the chemistry lab. The hall has 6 'flats' of up to 15 people, 4 of girls, 2 of guys, rooms are quite nice and modern, and generally the house is really good. Most of my flatmates are from the south, as well as a French guy, a German, an American, a Jordanian, and recently arrived, a guy from Libya. (In the photo, from left are Steve, Mike, Myself, Peter (from the flat downstairs), Brendan, Marc, Nial, Julian, and another Brendan). 

During the first couple of weeks here I spent more nights at the pub than at home, usually with the guys from the flat. It's a tremendous atmosphere there, everyone gets on well, there's a good mix of people/backgrounds/ages etc, and always someone to have a craic with (Irish for having a talk/laugh etc) or go out with.

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I went in to varsity on the Wednesday for the first time, and met up with my supervisor (Prof Jane Nelson), and some of the other staff and research students. In true Irish fashion, we were across at the Bot for lunch (the Botanical Inn, which is just across the road from Chemistry, really nice pub), and not much work got done after that. 

The University area of Belfast is beautiful, the photos here were actually taken later on, shortly after Christmas (1998) when there had been a cold snap, and everything was covered in frost, and looking really nice. The photos are in the Botanic Gardens (on Stranmillis Road, just opposite the chemistry building; photos one, two, three, four), and from the library tower looking west towards the City Hospital (the place to go for all your knee surgery requirements) and across the main building to the students union

the first couple of days in the second week I had to go back to England, for an induction course at the open university (although I'm studying at Queen's, my grant and my enrolment are through the Open Uni). That was in Milton Keynes, which is one wierd place. It's a built city, and incorporates several very old villages, which have been preserved intact. It is built on a very large scale, with lots of green, trees, fields etc, which is nice-but there is no "city atmosphere", since it is completely impractical to walk around the place (too far). The people at the university were excellent though, a really good friendly group of new research students, so the couple of days passed quickly (with a couple more nights spent in the bar on campus). On the whole though, (and particularly from a social point of view) I'm glad to be here where everything is easy walking/stumbling distance.

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On the Friday of that week, there was a 'clubs day' at Queens, information and opportunity to join clubs on campus. I joined six in total (canoeing, mountaineering, cycling, karate, caving, and, as an afterthought, rowing), since the subs were down to 1 or 2 pound for the occasion. I didn't expect to keep up with all of them, and as it turns out, the one which I have gotten most involved in is the one which I was least interested in to begin with - rowing. I've been training down on the Lagan river (5 minutes cycle from the flat) 2 or 3 times each week, as well as circuit training at the gym once a week. It's a really good social group of people (although that seems to be true of nearly everyone here - I've never been anywhere where it's so easy to meet people, or where complete strangers will talk to you like an old friend if you so much as nod at them), and they're very keen to encourage and coach the new members. We started out training on the rowing machines indoors, as well as tubs on the river (two seater training boats), but have been out in the 8's the last couple of weekends - great fun. 

The photos were taken during the "Men's Dinner" - the rowing club's formail event for the year. In the top photo are Graham, Paul (aka Tall Paul or TP - even taller than me!), Olly, Mike, Shane and another Graham. In the middle photo Oisin and Paul, and in the final photo Shane (novice of the year), Mike, and Dave. the night was terrific, the meal held in the beautiful Queen's main building, with a disco at another rowing club afterwards, and drinks at various other establishments throughout the night. The sport has a lot of tradition behind it, and the whole evening seemed like something you'd expect for the famous British universities like Oxford or Cambridge, which have the strongest rowing traditions of all.

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I haven't seen much outside Belfast yet, but am going on a trip to Donegal with the mountaineering club next weekend (the subject of the next update), so that'll be nice to see a bit of the countryside for a change. I did a guided bus tour around Belfast the weekend before last, which focussed largely on the troubles, and took in sights around East Belfast (some strong loyalist areas), and in West Belfast as well (Falls and Shankill Rd areas). A really interesting afternoon, some of the photos are at left. The final photo is a Saracen - the mean-looking armoured landrovers which the RUC drive around in (although there are more and more regular patrol cars around now).
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Last weekend I finally got to see a hurling match (it was cancelled the previous two weekends), between Ballygalgin and Ballycastle (counties Down and Antrim). I went with one of the girls from chemistry (Aina, pronounced On-ya) and her boyfriend Sean, who plays for another team (Portaferry I think). They hadn't told me where the game was beforehand, so I was a wee bit worried to discover it was off the Falls Rd, but they didn't seem the slightest bit concerned, having been there plenty of times before. There was a little bit of controversy with the Republic's National Anthem being played, and the Orange-White-Green flag being flown (see the third photo), but no real problems. The area wasn't the prettiest, but everyone was there for the game and a good time was had by all (maybe it would have been different if it hadn't ended up as a tie...). In retrospect, I think I would have been a bit more worried if I'd seen the news that morning (there were a couple of shootings the night before). The game itself was excellent, although Sean and Aina weren't impressed by the standard of playing skill. It is more like hockey than anything else, except that you can pick up the ball, kick it, hit it with your hand to pass it, catch it midair, etc, as well as swing the stick pretty much however you want (hitting other people in the head is discouraged however). As a result the game flows very quickly, and there weren't many interruptions from the ref, so it was all action the whole time.
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Sean arrived shortly later - taking a detour on his way back to New Zealand from America. Great to see a familiar face again, and a good excuse to take some time off work to do a bit of a trip. We hired a car and hit the roads of northern ireland for a couple of days. 

We stopped at a few places along the way on the first day (including Carrickfergus castle, and Giant's Causeway), and stayed the first night near Portstewart (ok, it was actually near Bushmills). A pub meal and a few drinks, games of pool (we had the bar to ourselves) and that was it for the day. The next morning we drove into Bushmills, after a walk along the shore, but were too early for the first tour (by a few hours), so decided to drive on, rather than waiting.

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We stopped in Dungiven to buy lunch, but moved on fairly quickly - there were Republican flags flying, and the woman in the shop was giving us odd looks - I think she mistook our accents for English. 

We made a loop around Lough Neagh, stopping at various historic sites along the way - neolithic burial mounds at Carnanbane, and the High Cross at Ardboe were just a couple of them. there are a lot of sites like this throughout the country, and together with the narrow roads, and stone walls it makes for lovely touring. 

After dropping sean back at the airport to return to London, then home, I regretfully had to return the car. I didn't have long to wait for another trip though - that weekend I was off to donegal with the mountaineering club - the subject of the next update.


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